BARNBURNER PATTERDALES | An all working Patterdale Terrier site!

REMOVAL OF SKUNK ODOR

We have used this solution, and it works well! We carry the ingredients in our first aid bag and if we need to use it we mix it up in the field. I hope you find this helpful!

1 quart 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

1/4 cup Baking Soda

1 teas**** liquid soap
(Dawn Dish washing Detergent is often recommended, but any dish soap will work)

Rubber or latex gloves

Mix in an open container (bucket or bowl); it will be fizzy, a clue that you shouldn't try to mix it or store it in a bottle or other closed container.
Thoroughly wet your dog with warm water and then the solution while it is still bubbling. Knead it well into his coat, to chemically alter every bit of the thiols on his hair. Be careful to keep the formula out if the dog's eyes, nose and mouth; you can use a sponge to carefully wipe it onto his face. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes before rinsing. Follow the bath with a thorough rinse. Be sure to protect the eyes when rinsing the head. Chances are you will not get all of the smell off of the face and will have to live with that as it wears off. You can try Tricotine Liquid Douche Concentrate or any over-the-counter douche.
After bathing, check your dog's eyes. If they are red and watering, your dog may have taken a direct hit in the face. Skunk spray won't blind the dog, but it's very painful. Contact a vet.

CPR ON YOUR DOG

I have never had to do CPR on any of my dogs, but if I ever needed to, I keep a copy of these instructions in my dog med bag. In the ground your dog can run out of air in a tube, or it might get ga**** by a Skunk. I hope you never need to use this info, but it might mean the difference between digging to your dog or digging your dog a grave.

A. Airway
The first step in animal CPR, after determining non-responsiveness, is to obtain a patent airway. You should not continue on, until this step has been achieved.
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal's mouth
WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.
WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists
Attempt 2 rescue breaths, by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they go in with no problems continue to B-Breathing.
Reposition the neck and try step 3 again.
Visibly inspect the airway by looking into the mouth, and down the throat for foreign objects occluding the airway. Unlike human-CPR, rescuers may reach into the airway and remove foreign objects that are visible
Proceed to the Heimlich maneuver
A. Heimlich
After attempting to ventilate:
Turn the animal upside down, with its back against your chest
With both arms, give 5 sharp thrusts (bear hugs) to the abdomen. Perform each thrust as if it is the one that will expel the object
Stop, check to see if the object is visible in the airway, if so, remove it and give 2 mouth-nose rescue breaths. If the breaths do not go in, go back to step 1
Use gravity to help you expel the object

Do not proceed with CPR, even if the animal goes into cardiac arrest. You must clear the airway first.

B. Breathing
After achieving a patent airway, one must determine whether the animal is breathing, and whether this breathing is effective:
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animalÕs mouth
WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.
WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists
Ventilate the animal by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they do not go in with ease go to A-Airway
Ventilate at 20 breaths per minute If supplemental Oxygen is available, and the animal is breathing on its own, use a high-flow blowby.
WARNING: Do not attempt to intubate the animal, without prior training, and properly sized ET tubes.
Proceed to C-Circulation, while continuing respiratory support as necessary
C. Circulation
This is the final step of CPR and should only be initiated after the airway and breathing steps have been completed:
Make sure that there are no major (pooling/spurting blood) points of bleeding. Control as necessary
Lay the animal on its right side
Locate your hands where its left elbow touches the chest. Approximately the middle of the rib-cage
Compress the chest 15 times followed by 2 rescue breaths (3 compressions every 2 seconds)
Compress
1/2" - small dogs
1" - medium dogs <
1.5" - large dogs
Repeat as necessary

Important:
Animals do not have palpable carotid pulses. You can only obtain a femoral pulse in the inguinal crease. (Palpate carefully on a conscious dog!)

POISONING

If by chance your dog should swallow poison, give your dog 2 or three cc's of hydrogen peroxide orally, give it a minute or two and up it will come. I hope this info was helpful. If you have any first aid stories please let us know. It might save the life of someone's dog.

FIRST AID

I was online and I found this list of things to add along to your first aid kit for hunting. A lot of these things I wouldn't have thought of. I hope you find it useful!

1.) LACTATED RINGERS + I.V. CATHETERS & FLUID LINES,
INJECTION PORTS, ET AL.
Ringers replace the fluids that get lost in a grueling war. You should have at least FOUR bags of ringers on hand and at least as many IV Catheters, fluid lines, and also have a few INJECTION PORTS as well. How to use them will be explained in a separate chapter.

2.) SOLU-DELTA-CORTEF (OR SOLU-MEDROL) + DEXAMETHASONE (OR AZIUM).
These are anti-Inflamatory/anti-shock injectibles. They reduce swelling and discomfort - and with Solu-Delta-Cortef (or Solu-Medrol) they can bring one back from a scary downhill turn for the worse. Also, remember, make sure you figure out the doses before you actually need to use them.
If you know your dog is 49lbs, then figure out how much Solu-Delta or Dex he will need before he actually needs them, because it saves precious time. You must have at least two 100 cc bottles of Dex and two vials of Solu-Delta or Solu-Medrol. How to use them will be explained in a separate chapter.

3.) ANTIBIOCTICS.
These will be used to prevent infection. You should have the following antibiotics, at minimum: sixty 500 mg. capsules of Cephalexen (or thirty 350 mg tablets of Clavamox) and twenty 68 mg. tablets of Baytril or Cipro. How to use them will be explained in a separate chapter.

4.) LASSIX (Furosemide).
Aids in urination. Sometimes the strain of a hunt can cause a dog's kidneys to shut down. Lassix can prevent this. Be careful not to over-do, as the dog can piss away all the fluids you're trying to put in with the ringers. This is what caused the dead game Truman to die - too much lassix and not enough fluid replacement. Can be critical to have, but is best NOT used if you don't have to. IV dose = 0.5 mg/lb.

5.) LEATHER SHOESTRING OR EQUIVALENT.
To be used as a tourniquet in case an artery is hit.

6.) BLOOD STOP POWDER.
Helps stop the bleeding of severed/cut arteries along with the use of a tourniquet and pressure.

7.) VITAMIN K INJECTIBLE.
Promotes blood clotting and can help stop bleeders, as well as unseen internal bleeding that can occur from all-out wars. Give one injection IM or SQ at 0.25 mg/kg (or.5 mg/5 Ib).

8.) GAUZE AND LEG TAPE (Type used on horses).
Used to secure the Ringers to the leg of the treated dog, as well as securing splints and braces if any legs are broken. You can get straight medical tape, and also the colored, non-stick, breathable tape.

9.) 2 FULL COTTON ROLLS.
To aid in setting splints and can be used as a leg wrap by itself, secured with the leg tape.

10.) 2 ADJUSTABLE SPLINTS.
These should also be fitted for your dog's legs prior to leaving for the hunt. Having splints there with your supplies will minimize any further trauma from a broken leg, should your dog suffer one, by securing it immediately afterward.

11.) SPRAY BOTTLE W/ A 50-50% MIXTURE OF 1 PINT BETADINE AND 1 PINT HYDROGEN PEROXIDE.
You can spray these combined disinfectants directly into the holes in your dog to flush out dirt and toxins, while cleansing the wounds to prevent infection. Best on superficial cuts.
Spray into ears too.

12.) SPRAY BOTTLE W/ 1 QUART OF WATER MIXED WITH 25 CC OF NOLVASAN (CHLORHEXIDINE DIACETATE).
See 11 above. Nolvasan should be used in deep cuts over the Betadine x Hydrogen Peroxinde mix. It is gentler on the mucous membranes and lasts longer too. However, some gram negative bacteria are resistant to Nolvasan, so it's good to have the Betadine and Peroxide on hand too. You can spray either into damaged ears too.

13.) PREPODYNE SWABS.
Ears can swell and fill with fluid. These help by enabling you to cleansing and remove dirt, pus, and blood crust from the ears, as well as to help with applications of Betadine + Peroxide, Nolvasan, etc.
14.) STAPLE GUN (+ REMOVERS) AND ALSO CAT GUT SUTURES.
For closing more serious wounds (after treatment of same with betadine and peroxide and/or Nolvasan, etc.). Once you clean cuts out, stapling big cuts can both prevent infection and speed up healing; it also reduces scarring. I personally prefer the ease of staples **Note however. If you have a severed vein or artery, you can use the cat gut suture to tie off the end of the bleeder to stop the blood from flowing out, so it's good to have these just in case. To stop a completely-severed bleeder, take a length of cat gut suture (and make sure it IS cat gut, because they eventually dissolve) and tie a knot on the vein on one spot close to the limb. Then you tie another knot out a little ways toward the tip of the severed vessel. Then push the whole vessel, with two ties on it, back into the hole. The vein will eventually rearticulate, but you just stopped your hunter from bleeding to death.

15.) BETADINE SURGICAL SCRUB OR NOLVASAN SHAMPOO.
For washing your dog off after the show, cleaning him from head to toe to prevent infection. (Again, you can substitute a Nolvasalon shampoo for Betadine surgical scrub.)

16.) SCALPEL AND/OR SURGICAL RAZOR.
To cut away dead tissue to prevent infection/gangrene.

17.) SURGICAL SCISSORS.
Same as 16, and can be used to cut tape also when applying gauze or bandages.

18.) STERILE GLOVES.
To be used while treating wounds, stapling, etc. to prevent infection.

19.) RECTAL THERMOMETER.
Used in monitoring the temperature of a dog in shock.

20.) STERILE VASELINE OR KY JELLY.
Can aid in temperature-taking, etc.

21.) SUPER GLUE.
Used for repairing split ears and tail-tips.

22.) GRANULEX SPRAY / WONDER DUST.
Used during the healing process to remove (debride) necrotic tissue from the wound.

23.) TWO CLEAN, DRY BLANKETS.
One for covering a dog after the hunt while he receives his fluids, and the other used after he gets his bath and wound treatment, so he can be kept warm while he is resting.
(Bring more if very cold in your area.)

24.) FOUR CLEAN, DRY TOWELS.
2 for drying the dog after pre-hunt wash ... and two for his after-hunt cleaning bath.

25.) TWO DOZEN 3CC SYRINGES W/ 22-GUAGE NEEDLES.
For all of the needed injections.

26.) CYTOMAX + PEAK CONDITION.
To mix with water to feed/water your dog after a hunt to give life-sustaining fluids, electrolytes, and nutrients.

27.) EPINEPHRINE ("EPI" .***
Adrenaline injection to start a failed heart. Used only in the most extreme emergencies - that should be unnecessary if you pick up your dog at a reasonable time with plenty of Life in him. [Misuse of Epi is what killed GR CH Sandman after his legendary hunt with GR CH Buck ... Remember taking a hunt too far takes the sporting aspect out of the game and turns it into what the humaniacs claim it to be. DON'T BE A PLAYER LIKE THAT! Be sporting ... pick up at the right time.] Epi can also be used to reverse anaphylaxis. Should your dog have a total body shutdown, by having an allergic reaction to any medications, Epi can reverse this as well.

COON HOUND PARALYSIS

WE HAD ONE OF OUR BEST DOGS DIE FROM THIS I HOPE THE INFO IS HELPFUL.

Coonhound Paralysis

Coonhound Paralysis (also called acute idiopathic polyradiculoneuritis) is one of those neuropathies (neurological pathologies) of undetermined origin. It is an auto immune reaction, an immune mediated inflammation of nerves and nerve roots. It occurs when a dog previously sensitized ("allergic") to certain antigens, most commonly a protein in raccoon saliva, develops an immune reaction to the antigen. It seems to follow having been bitten by a raccoon, and seems to affect only dogs. It does NOT affect ALL dogs thus savaged by raccoons, nor does it seem to affect cats or raccoons similarly afflicted.
The scenario goes as follows. A few days after having been bitten, the dog begins to be weak on the hind end and gradually becomes more and more paralyzed, eventually losing control of bladder, and in some cases, of breathing. Fatalities are rare, but known. Severe cases can result in death from respiratory paralysis. This immune system reaction attacks portions of the peripheral nerves, causing rapidly progressing flaccid paralysis. If you can give supportive care for long enough, the dog gets better, usually within 4-6 weeks. There is no recommended "treatment" (antibiotic therapy) that works. Coonhound paralysis resembles tick paralysis. Affected dogs are at increased risk of future attacks if exposed again to raccoon saliva, since they are not sensitized to the antigen.

No toxins have ever been isolated from raccoon saliva, nor have micro-organisms been found that would account for it. It is generally considered to be an immune reaction to some protein in the saliva, which attacks the dog's own neural tissue.

The worst part is that raccoons are well know to carry and suffer from rabies. The symptoms of rabies are sometimes similar and incubation of rabies can be extremely short. How to differentiated between the two? A paired serum samples showing a steeply rising titre against rabies would be sufficient.

ANTIBOTICS

Here is some info I found on antibiotics. I hope someone gets some good out of it.

PENICILLIN G: Penicillin is good to use only in the injectable form. It is only valuable as a preventative agent, and even this value is becoming suspect. Penicillin will not generally work well to treat wounds that are already infected, and if it does work once it will seldom work on the same dog twice. The best use for Penicillin is to give it right after damage occurs along with a good anti-bacterial bath or scrub. The injectable dose on Penicillin G is listed in "units" the product you have may come in a strength of 10,000 units per ML (or some other strength higher or lower so check the bottle). Also there are different types on the market and they all stay in the body different lengths of time. Compare your bottle to the list below for how often you must give it. They all should be given IM but can be given under the skin if the dog reacts to the pain of the injection. This is a product you may obtain through any catalogue or at any feed store.

The different Penicillin Injectables:
• Penicillin G potassium, 12,500 IU per lb, given every 6 hours
• Penicillin G sodium, 10,000 IU per Ib, given every 6 hours
• Penicillin G procaine, 15,000 IU per Ib, given every 12-24 hrs
• Penicillin G benzathine, 20,000 IU per Ib, given every 2-3 days
The trade names differ on each product so read the labels. Some common products are Crystiben and Benz-pen. Also, DO NOT mix penicillin with other antibiotics!

STRONGER FIGHTERS:
The following drugs can be used to treat an infection that has actually developed in a dog, where one of the above preventative medications failed to work:

CEPHALEXIN: This is a very good drug for skin and flesh infections, as well as mastitis and infections of the bone. In fact, Cephalexen is one of the best "all-purpose" antibiotics you can find. What's more, Cephalexen is also easy to come by, and very inexpensive. Cephalexen only comes in oral form, and the dose is 11 mg per pound of body weight given every 6 to 8 hours, depending on the severity. If you are using a maintenance dose, give every 8 hours. If the case is severe, use every 6 hrs. This drug is a "must have" in every dogman's medicine cabinet. You can easily obtain this drug, labeled for fish, in a product called "Fish-Flex" from THOMAS LABORATORIES.

CLAVAMOX: This is derivative of Amoxicillin but is a bit stronger, as it is a "potentiated" version of it, having Potassium Clavulanate added to it, and is thus better at fighting infection. The addition of this ingredient basically makes it harder for susceptible bacteria to build resistance to the Amoxicillin. Clavamox can also be used for mastitis, respiratory and ear infections, as well as pyometra - and is safe for pregnant bitches. It is only given orally. This drug is great but can cause vomiting occasionally. It is dosed in a 1:4 ratio, that is one part Potassium Clavulanate to four parts Amoxicillin. For convenience, the manufacturers lump them all together when they dose it out. The oral dose is 6.25 mg per pound. It comes pre-packaged in foil strips in 3 sizes and also drops for small pups. There are 62.5 mg for 10-pound puppies, 250 mg for 40-pound dogs, and 375 mg for 60-pound dogs. There is a human drug that is the same as Clavamox, but it is called Augmentin. Although these drugs are expensive, both Clavamox and Augmentin are worth their weight in gold to a dogman. However, Clavamox is very hard to get without a prescription, but you CAN get the human equivalent, Augmentin, over the internet from the following foreign pharmacy, ONE DRUGSTORE ONLINE (see my "Saving Money" chapter).

THE BIG BOYS:
The following antibiotics are extremely powerful and should NEVER be used as a first choice, but only as a last resort for a severely infected dog that couldn’t be treated successfully with the above drugs:

ANTIROBE: (Clindamycin) All of the above antibiotics have been bactericidal, meaning they actually kill bacteria when at the proper dose. Antirobe is bacteristatic; that is, it halts bacteria so the body can fight off the infection itself. However, Antirobe is a great drug for deep infections of the bone, deep abscesses, and other ailments requiring deep penetration, such as lung infections also. As can be guessed by its name, Antirobe gets anaerobic bacteria, meaning bacteria that do not require oxygen to survive. Hence it is one of the primary drugs of choice for deep infections of injured joints, broken bones, tooth abscesses, etc. Antirobe is dosed at 4 mg per pound, given orally, every 12 hours. There are potential side-effects, so caution should be used and the dog watched closely. Again, this drug should NOT be used as a first choice, but only for very deep infections that the above drugs have failed to cure. You can also order Antirobe from ONE DRUGSTORE ONLINE.

BAYTRIL: (Enrofloxacin) This is a very well known drug. People think it is good for everything, and for the most part they are right. Again, this drug should NOT be used as a preventative antibiotic. It is best used with bad infections or when other antibiotics have not worked. It is excellent for skin, ear, flesh, urinary, mammary, and bone infections, as well as being an effective remedy for mycoplasma, and sometimes brucellosis. However, if Baytril keeps being used as a first choice antibiotic, sooner or later it will go the way of penicillin and be useless. This is especially true if it is used incorrectly. The dose for the injectable form is 0.25 ml per 5 pounds of weight in one muscular injection, but you then follow this with the tablets, as the injectable is hard on the kidneys. The dose for the tablets is either 5.7 mg per 5 pounds of weight given orally TWICE a day, every 12 hours ... or 11.4 mg per pound given orally ONCE, every 24 hrs. The tablets come in 4 sizes: 5.7mg, 22.7 mg, 68 mg, and 136 mg. Example: If you have a 40 pound dog you would give either two of the 22.7 mg tablets every 12 hours, or four of the 22.7 mg tablets once a day. The easy way to dose this is: 22.7mg tablet twice a day for a 20 pound dog, 68 mg tablet twice a day for a 60 pound dog. Again, double the dose and you can give it only once a day.

Unfortunately, Baytril is usually only available by prescription and there are no "over-the-counter" versions of it, However, the human equivalent to Baytril is CIPRO (Ciprofloxacin), and this drug is available over-the-counter from ONE DRUGSTORE ONLINE. The dosage for Cipro is 5 mg per pound, given twice daily. Unlike Baytril, you can NOT double the dose of Cipro and give just once daily; it must be given every 12 hours. However, Cipro is much less expensive than Baytril and every bit as effective in fighting infections.

***NOTE: Baytril and Cipro are called Fluoro-quinolones and again SHOULD NOT be used as a first choice. They also SHOULD NOT be used in puppies under 8 months old. They can cause damage to the leg cartilage in pups making them permanently lame. They also should be fed on an EMPTY STOMACH, one hour before feeding, or 3 hours after. Also, do NOT use with Pepcid AC as it interferes with the potency. ***

OTHER ANTIBIOTICS
There are a few other antibiotics / would like to mention, some of which have application to wounds, while others have some good practical applications to our dogs that are NOT wound-related, but still very important. They are:

TETRACYCLINE: This is a broad spectrum antibiotic, but it has a few side effects, so you should use it in wound care only if you have no other antibiotics to choose from. There are some rare bacteria that are only affected by the tetracyclines, however, so it is a good drug to have in your medicine cabinet. The tetracyclines are for the most part bacteriostatic as well, so it is important that your dog have a good immune system when you use this drug. It is a good choice for treating bronchopneumonia (kennel cough). Another great use for Tetracycline is for the treatment of Lyme Disease. The oral dose is 10 mg per pound 3-4 times a day (every 6 - 8 hrs), depending on the severity. Side effects: If you give tetracycline to a pregnant bitch or a puppy before the adult teeth have come in, the teeth of the pup will be permanently stained yellow or light brown. Also tetracycline can sometimes kill off the natural flora or "good" bacteria in the intestines. This can cause a change in stool or diarrhea. Also, they inhibit calcium formation and should not be used on an animal with any bone fracture that requires healing. And, one final note, NEVER use expired Tetracycline on your dogs, just throw it away if it goes pa**** the expiration date. Tetracycline becomes highly-toxic once it becomes outdated. You can easily obtain this drug, labeled for fish, in a product called "Fish-Cycline" from THOMAS LABORATORIES. You can also order Tetracycline from ONE DRUGSTORE ONLINE.

DOXYCYCLINE: This drug is a derivative of Tetracycline, but (as a rule) it is far superior. From minimizing the sideeffects, to having a broader spectrum of efficacy, to having deeper penetration into cells, Doxycycline is a very important drug to have in your medicine cabinet. Doxycycline is an adequate choice to fight infection, and could be placed alongside Cephalexen and Clavamox in this article. It also has a strong use in fighting mastitis, kennel cough, urinary infections, etc., but perhaps its greatest use is in fighting the tick-born diseases. From ehrlichia, to babesia, to Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Doxycycline is a great choice in the treatment of all of the tick-born ailments that can plague our dogs. The oral dosage for Doxycycline is 5 mg per pound, given 1-2 times a day (every 12-24 hours). You can easily obtain this drug, labeled for birds, in a product

NURSING MOTHERS AND PUPS

Anemic nursing mothers and when dogs won't eat

PUDDING RECIPE

Mix
large 4 cup size vanilla pudding,
1/2 cup sugar,
4 cups of milk, and
4 egg yolks.
Cook on low heat to pudding consistency and offer to new mother at body temperature. She can eat as much as she wants. Has never caused diarrhea and brings in abundance of milk!!!

I have tried this on nursing mothers when they are short on milk and it works well! I also mix in either powdered milk or baby forumla with the dry dog food. If you are on a tight budget the powdered milk works but the baby forumla seems to work better. You can use canned goat milk too this is great for a suplement for pups as well.

Repelling fleas Naturally

GARLIC

1: Garlic is the simplest method for repelling fleas and takes the least amount of effort. Feed your dog a small clove of garlic a few times a week, perhaps every two days, or three times a week for dogs weighing about 50 pounds. Most dogs will not have a problem snarfing down a clove when offered, but if your pooch is fussy, you can mince it and add it to his food. The garlic will permeate your dogs coat giving him an odor that fleas won't like. Don't worry, the odor should not be so strong that it repels you too!

VINEGAR

2: Using vinegar, mix one part vinegar to one part water. Dab with a rag or use a spray bottle to spritz your dog's coat. Vinegar soothes and relieves skin irritations and itching. Other methods include adding vinegar to your dog's water, 1 tsp to the average size water bowl, and/or adding vinegar to his bath, about a ½ cup. Do avoid getting vinegar in your dog's eyes or ear because it can sting!